The key terms of cosmetic formulation and regulation, explained simply by our laboratory.
The mandatory regulatory file bringing together the composition, tests, safety assessment and safety report of a cosmetic product. Known as the DIP in France, it is required by Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 before any product is placed on the European market.
Learn moreInternational Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. The standardised nomenclature listing the ingredients on a cosmetic label, in Latin for natural components.
Learn moreMonitoring of the undesirable effects of cosmetics once they are on the market. Governed by Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and, in France, by the ANSM.
Learn moreThe manufacturer or importer who guarantees the compliance and safety of a cosmetic product placed on the market, and keeps the PIF available to the authorities.
Learn moreCosmetic Products Notification Portal: the European portal on which every cosmetic product must be notified before it is sold in the European Union.
Learn moreA statement made about a cosmetic product (effect, composition, origin). Governed by Regulation (EU) 655/2013, it must be substantiated and not misleading.
Learn moreHow long a cosmetic remains safe after it is first opened, shown by the open-jar pictogram (e.g. 6M, 12M). Mandatory for products whose durability exceeds 30 months.
The date until which a cosmetic keeps its properties (safety, efficacy). Mandatory on the label when durability is 30 months or less.
The French national agency for the safety of medicines and health products: the competent French authority for cosmetovigilance and market surveillance of cosmetics.
Learn moreThe European database of cosmetic ingredients: INCI names, functions, restrictions and the annexes of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.
A qualified expert (toxicologist, pharmacist...) who writes the cosmetic product safety report (Annex I of Regulation 1223/2009), the cornerstone of the PIF.
Learn moreThe form and texture of a cosmetic product (cream, serum, balm, gel, powder...). The choice of format shapes both sensory feel and efficacy.
A cosmetic formulated without water: concentrated actives, fewer preservatives, a more sustainable format. Balms, oils, powders, sticks and solid cosmetics.
Learn moreA compact, concentrated, water-free product (shampoo, soap, deodorant...). More ecological, economical and travel-friendly than its liquid version.
Learn moreA stabilised blend of two immiscible phases - aqueous and oily - held together by an emulsifier. Most cosmetic creams and milks are emulsions.
An ingredient that cleanses, foams or emulsifies by lowering the tension between water and oils. Its mildness determines how well a cleansing product is tolerated.
The ingredient that delivers the claimed benefit of a formula (hydrating, anti-ageing, soothing...). Its dosage must be consistent with the claim made on the product.
Learn moreThe ingredient that forms the base of the formula and carries the actives (water, oils, butters, gelling agents). It shapes texture and stability.
An ingredient protecting the formula from microbial contamination. A positive list and maximum dosages are set by Annex V of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.
Water charged with aromatic compounds, collected during the steam distillation of a plant. A gentle alternative to essential oils in natural formulation.
Learn moreA measure of a formula's acidity. As skin has a slightly acidic pH (around 5.5), the pH of a cosmetic is adjusted and controlled to guarantee tolerance and stability.
Good Manufacturing Practices for cosmetics (BPF in French). The ISO 22716 standard defines the quality and traceability rules a production unit must follow.
Learn moreA preservative efficacy test: it checks that the formula withstands microbial contamination over time. Mandatory for product safety.
Learn moreA skin test assessing the tolerance of a product applied to the skin, to detect possible reactions before market launch.
Learn moreMinimum Order Quantity: the smallest quantity that can be ordered for a reference. It depends on the product and the packaging; we offer accessible starting volumes.
Learn moreA study verifying that a formula keeps its appearance, smell, colour and efficacy over time and under stress (temperature, light). It underpins the PAO and the date of minimum durability.
Learn moreA study verifying the absence of interaction between the formula and its packaging (migration, alteration, deformation). Essential before approving a container.
Learn moreA laboratory that develops and/or manufactures cosmetics on behalf of third-party brands. Costomise is a contract manufacturer specialising in natural and organic cosmetics, based in Marans.
Learn moreThe formula in bulk, before filling. The bulk is made in a tank, controlled, then filled into primary packaging (bottle, jar, tube).
Primary packaging is in direct contact with the formula (bottle, jar); secondary packaging surrounds it (carton, leaflet). Each carries its own mandatory labelling.
The international certification standard for organic and natural cosmetics. A COSMOS Natural or Organic product must contain at least 95% ingredients of natural origin.
Learn moreThe standard defining how the natural and natural-origin indexes of an ingredient or a formula are calculated. A measuring tool, not a label: on its own it certifies nothing.
An independent certification body, notably for the COSMOS standard. It audits the formulas, sites and traceability of organic and natural cosmetics.
Learn moreIn the European Union, animal testing of cosmetic products and their ingredients has been banned since 2013 by Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. The claim therefore does not set one product apart from another on the European market.
Selling, under your own brand, formulas already developed and tested by a laboratory. A fast launch with controlled costs.
Learn moreThe development of an exclusive formula to a precise brief. More freedom and differentiation, with longer lead times and a higher budget than white label.
Learn moreGiving value to by-products or raw materials that would otherwise have been discarded, transformed into cosmetic ingredients. A lever for eco-design.
Learn moreAn approach favouring formulas that respect the environment, free of ingredients considered controversial. No official label to date.
Learn moreAn approach centred on the transparency and safety of formulas for the consumer. Often associated with clean beauty.
Learn moreProducts with non-aggressive, non-irritating compositions (no alcohol or synthetic fragrances), with an ethical and environmental dimension.
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