Ensuring the safety of beauty products is a priority in France and in Europe.
The European regulations in force impose mandatory tests to guarantee that cosmetic products present no risk to health.
What are the mandatory tests for cosmetics in Europe?
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council of 30 November 2009 governs the placing of cosmetic products on the European market. It imposes several mandatory tests to ensure consumer safety.
Among them, the stability test assesses the product’s shelf life under various environmental conditions, while the compatibility test checks the interaction between the content and the container. In addition, microbiological tests are carried out to ensure the absence of pathogenic micro-organisms.
Does France apply European standards to cosmetics?
In France, since 1 January 2024, the Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control (DGCCRF) alone ensures the control of cosmetic products and establishments.
It oversees the application of European standards, ensuring that marketed products comply with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, and can order the withdrawal of any product deemed dangerous to human health.
Essential parts of this regulation include the safety requirements (Article 3), requiring manufacturers to guarantee that cosmetics are safe under normal conditions of use, and the good manufacturing practices (Article 8), ensuring product quality and compliance.
Safety assessment tests and labelling obligations
The safety assessment of cosmetic products includes several tests. The patch test assesses allergic or irritant skin reactions; the challenge test checks the absence of micro-organism growth at different times. These tests are essential to guarantee product safety before market launch.
Information such as the list of ingredients, the minimum durability date and precautions for use must appear clearly on the packaging, to inform the consumer and ensure safe use.
Banned substances in cosmetics
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 establishes a list of substances banned in cosmetic products to protect consumer health.
For example, formaldehyde, certain phthalates (such as DEHP and DBP) and chloroform are strictly prohibited, due to their carcinogenic, mutagenic or reproductively toxic effects. Cosmetics laboratories in La Rochelle like Costomise ensure their products do not contain these substances.
Is animal testing regulated in the EU?
Since 2013, the European Union bans animal testing for finished cosmetic products and their ingredients. This promotes alternative assessment methods: manufacturers must use in vitro tests or other non-animal approaches to prove their products’ safety.
The responsibilities of cosmetics manufacturers
Manufacturers in Europe are responsible for guaranteeing the safety of their products. They must compile a product information file, including a safety assessment by a toxicology expert, made available to the authorities in case of inspection.
The DGCCRF monitors the market and carries out regular checks. In case of non-compliance, sanctions can be applied, from product withdrawal to fines.
The consequences of non-compliance
The authorities can order the withdrawal or recall of non-compliant products. Financial sanctions and legal proceedings can also be brought against companies at fault. These measures aim to protect consumer health and maintain trust in the cosmetics market.
Current regulatory trends in Europe
Cosmetic regulations evolve to respond to new health and environmental concerns. For example, discussions are under way about banning per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in cosmetics, due to their persistence and potentially harmful effects.
The safety of cosmetic products rests on strict regulations and mandatory tests, overseen by the French and European authorities to protect consumers.
